Alive in Lisbon: Sounds of Alfama

The first day it was already night when I arrived at my apartment in Alfama, suitcase wheels attacking dark cobblestone alleys like unbalanced bombs. They wanted me to surrender, I had already given away too much. Why keep moving? Counterforce children are throwing their own, and my leg is hit by a water balloon explosion. My desire limps toward the home hidden in this neighborhood, … Continue reading Alive in Lisbon: Sounds of Alfama

Want to be a travel writer? Read this first.

A real writer can write anywhere—all you need is a pen and paper. Or so I’ve been told. After living in Prague for over 4 years, I decided it was time to move on to sunnier skies and follow up on my obsession with Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa. But before relocating to my new home base in Lisbon, I first escaped for a few months … Continue reading Want to be a travel writer? Read this first.

Lisbon: Of Sardines and Saints

It’s an ice cream kind of afternoon in Lisbon. At the wide, roomy miradouro (lookout point) of São Pedro de Alcãntara in the hip Principe Real district, two 20-something musicians have positioned themselves strategically, with the cinematic cityscape behind them, a mighty backdrop, as they strum and croon the soothing wide-open syllables of Brazilian bossa nova out onto the white-tiled plaza. Like a subtle accompaniment, a lithe … Continue reading Lisbon: Of Sardines and Saints