Argentina’s weird and wonderful world of yerba mate

If you want to make an Argentine laugh, tell him that mate is a sparkling, berry-flavored energy drink that comes in a yellow can. Yeah, you know that brand I’m talking about. In Argentina, where mate (pronounced “mah-tay”) is the best part of waking up, the beverage stays true to its original form: a hot, bitter, caffeinated herbal soup prepared inside a little hollowed out … Continue reading Argentina’s weird and wonderful world of yerba mate

In the trains of Buenos Aires, you can’t ignore life

I am in the end of a train car where there is almost always space to sit on the floor underneath the wide, scratched windows. I imagine the shoes that have been here, smeared with sidewalk dog shit, muddy boots and wet bike tires, all the filth of a city underfoot, filing in and out of this car. But the floor means no standing on tired … Continue reading In the trains of Buenos Aires, you can’t ignore life