No worries at the end of the world–Guincho Beach, Portugal

Spring is over when I travel to Lisbon after the end of a long relationship, after the end of a cold and exhausting era in my life. When I arrive to the sun-dazzled city, its buildings swathed in colorful tiles, I am flooded with brochures and guidebooks on where to go, what to eat, what to do. It’s hard to think, I am tired of … Continue reading No worries at the end of the world–Guincho Beach, Portugal

Beyond Dubai’s Glitz and Glamour

“It’s a desert with two big malls in it. You won’t like it.” Before visiting, my impression of Dubai was based only on these comments from a couple friends who had already been there. Once I arrived, I realized that the city does a damn good job to erase the idea that you’re really just in the middle of the desert. Still, that fact had … Continue reading Beyond Dubai’s Glitz and Glamour

Alive in Lisbon: Sounds of Alfama

The first day it was already night when I arrived at my apartment in Alfama, suitcase wheels attacking dark cobblestone alleys like unbalanced bombs. They wanted me to surrender, I had already given away too much. Why keep moving? Counterforce children are throwing their own, and my leg is hit by a water balloon explosion. My desire limps toward the home hidden in this neighborhood, … Continue reading Alive in Lisbon: Sounds of Alfama

In the trains of Buenos Aires, you can’t ignore life

I am in the end of a train car where there is almost always space to sit on the floor underneath the wide, scratched windows. I imagine the shoes that have been here, smeared with sidewalk dog shit, muddy boots and wet bike tires, all the filth of a city underfoot, filing in and out of this car. But the floor means no standing on tired … Continue reading In the trains of Buenos Aires, you can’t ignore life

Buenos Aires: Unstoppable Artists

As I rev up to get going on my travels once again, I thought I’d share a post that I recently wrote for CreativeLive about the flourishing and ubiquitous artists of Buenos Aires who serve as some serious inspiration…. Lessons on Success from the Artists of Buenos Aires You don’t want to be a starving artist, but you know that getting rich and famous isn’t going … Continue reading Buenos Aires: Unstoppable Artists

Memories of Ukraine

Today, in honor of Ukraine’s Independence Day, I’m taking a look back on a trip to Ukraine in the summer of 1999…. The drive from Borispol airport to Tyotya (aunt) Clara’s apartment deep inside Kiev–in the same building where my mother had grown up–was speedy. This was thanks to our driver, who traveled well over the speed limit. Somehow, we were comfortable on this cramped … Continue reading Memories of Ukraine

A Paradise Lost: House sitting in north Cyprus, Part 1

(Notes from my house sitting experience back in late 2011 through spring 2012) Karpaz is one of those places that many people have never heard of and will never see in its current pristine state. Even its geographical distance from the western world only underscores how distant our understanding is of truly untouched wildlife, of isolated and unspoilt nature. But it exists, here among the … Continue reading A Paradise Lost: House sitting in north Cyprus, Part 1